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Read moreHigashiyama at dawn, lesser temples in Arashiyama, and the Ohara valley to the north.
Higashiyama is Kyoto's preserved wooden-house district. Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka are the stone streets that climb to Kiyomizu-dera. By 10 AM there are 5,000-10,000 people. At 5:30, there's only us.
Wanvela arranges a chauffeur from Hyatt Regency Kyoto at 5:00 AM, we arrive Sannenzaka by 5:20 to watch first light hit the rooftops at 5:30. Clients get the Kyoto Instagram shot without anyone in the frame.
Everyone walks the Bamboo Forest, it takes 12 minutes. But Arashiyama has 20+ temples most visitors never enter:
Ohara is 1 hour by car north of Kyoto Station, a valley where farmers have grown shibazuke (Kyoto pickles) since the 11th century.
The temple Sanzen-in here has a moss garden Japanese landscape architects call the most perfect in the country. Locals come during autumn to escape foreign tourists. Wanvela arranges shojin ryori (vegetarian temple cuisine) lunch at Seryo Ryokan.
"One family came during sakura, they didn't want the same Maruyama Park photos. We took them to Ohara on day three. He said: 'This is the Kyoto the books were describing.'" - Wanvela trip log, April 2025
Pontocho is a 500-year-old restaurant alley along the Kamogawa River. At 7 PM it's packed with tourists; at 7 AM only restaurant owners hosing down the alley, kimono shop doors opening, and the occasional geisha returning to her okiya in nearby Gion.
We walk Pontocho before breakfast, stopping at % Arabica Higashiyama which opens at 8 AM (the original branch where Kenneth Shoji started the brand).
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