Tuscany Wine Regions Explained
The three wine regions of Tuscany, not one region but three distinct landscapes, each within two hours of the next…
Read moreA diary from a truffle hunt in Montalcino with a Tuscan family and three Lagotto dogs, gathering fresh white truffles.
The morning of 6 November 2024, 9°C, with fog drifting through the Brunello vines of Castello Banfi. The Wanvela team of six plus Massimo (host), the Tuscan Donatella family, and three Lagotto dogs (Birba, Olivia, Pepe) walked into the pine forest behind the estate.
The Lagotto is an Italian breed bred specifically for truffle-hunting for more than 800 years. In earlier centuries, female pigs were used because of their sense of smell, but pigs liked to eat the truffles, so few survived to the basket. The Lagotto was trained to indicate the location without digging.
Birba (9 years old, the most experienced) ran slowly with her nose close to the ground. She stopped abruptly at the root of an oak tree and began digging gently with her paws. Donatella moved in and dug by hand, an 18-gram white truffle emerged as the day's first find.
Two hours of work, seven white truffles totaling 84 grams. The largest was 22 grams. Market price €350.
"White truffle is luxury, not because it's expensive, but because you can't find it without a dog, a person, and a season working in concert. Three things at once." - Donatella, truffle hunter, fourth generation
White truffle (Tuber magnatum) grows only in symbiosis with the roots of certain trees, oak, hazelnut, poplar, in soil with pH between 7.5 and 8 and the right moisture. Montalcino has this chemistry exactly.
The white truffle season runs October to December, some years stretching into January. White truffle does not appear in any other months. Black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is harvested December to March.
After the hunt, Donatella's family opened their home to the group. A 200-year-old Tuscan farmhouse, an open kitchen, a long wooden table, a wood-fired oven.
The menu:
After lunch, Donatella taught us what books don't say:
3 pm back at the hotel, Wanvela arranged for every family to take home a 20-gram truffle stone, wrapped in rice in an airtight jar to carry to Bangkok. The aroma held strong for three days.
Truffle hunting in a Wanvela Italy trip is available only in the October–December window, as an add-on to the Italy 7-night itinerary. €280 per guest (includes lunch + 20g truffle).
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